It is important to distinguish the corporate ownership structure from the brand itself. While Hawley & Hazel operates Darlie, Colgate-Palmolive acquired a 50% interest in Hawley & Hazel in 1985 and remains a major partner in the business.

Origins in Shanghai

Darlie traces its roots to Hawley & Hazel, an oral-care company whose toothpaste business began in Shanghai during the 1930s. Records from the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History indicate that Hawley & Hazel created Darkie Toothpaste in Shanghai in 1933 9.

The original brand was marketed under the name Darkie, with a visual identity based on the appearance of American entertainer Al Jolson, specifically his exaggerated smile and bright teeth. Packaging featured a smiling man wearing a top hat and formal attire 12. This concept was linked to the popularity of blackface minstrel entertainment in the United States at the time. Consequently, what became a highly successful Asian consumer brand carried imagery later recognized as a racist stereotype in the U.S. and elsewhere 13.

Expansion across Asia

The toothpaste subsequently became a prominent brand in Asian markets, with Hawley & Hazel expanding operations to Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, and China. By the late 20th century, Darkie had secured strong market positions in several Southeast and East Asian territories. Reports from 1989 indicated the brand held market shares ranging from approximately 20% to 70% in major Asian markets, underscoring its importance to Hawley & Hazel’s business 3.

A pivotal moment occurred in 1985 when Colgate-Palmolive acquired a 50% interest in Hawley & Hazel for approximately US$50 million 12. For Colgate-Palmolive, this investment provided an established foothold in Asian oral-care markets but also brought international scrutiny to Darkie’s branding.

The original name and blackface imagery drew criticism from civil rights organizations, shareholders, and other groups in the United States. Colgate-Palmolive subsequently acknowledged that the branding was offensive and collaborated with Hawley & Hazel to implement changes 13.

In 1989, the English name was officially changed from Darkie to Darlie. Concurrently, the packaging was redesigned; the original blackface character was replaced by a racially ambiguous smiling man still wearing a top hat and formal clothing. Contemporary reports described this redesign as an effort to remove overtly offensive racial imagery while retaining visual elements familiar to consumers 13.

This transition marked a critical juncture in the brand’s history, transforming Darkie into Darlie while maintaining continuity in packaging and consumer recognition. Initially, this was strictly an English-language rebranding; the Chinese name remained unchanged and controversial for decades longer.

For many years, Darlie’s Chinese name was 黑人牙膏 (Hēirén yágāo), which literally translates to “Black Person Toothpaste.” Despite the 1989 English name change, critics noted that the Chinese identity retained a connection to the brand’s original racial imagery.

In 2020, amid renewed international discourse on racial inequality and the Black Lives Matter movement, Colgate-Palmolive announced it would work with Hawley & Hazel to review and further evolve the Darlie brand, including its name. Reuters reported at the time that both companies were reviewing “all aspects” of the brand 11.

The next major transformation occurred in 2022. Hawley & Hazel announced that the Chinese name 黑人牙膏 would be replaced by 好來 (Hǎolái), effective around March 2022. The new Chinese name was intended to align the brand more closely with Hawley & Hazel and distance it from the problematic historical connotations of the previous name 10.

Simultaneously, Darlie introduced a broader brand refresh described as “A Brand New Look for a Bright Future.” The updated identity emphasizes comprehensive oral care, technology, product development, and confident smiles. The company deliberately retained recognizable assets such as the Darlie English name, the gentleman icon, and familiar color schemes while modernizing the overall visual presentation 16.

The brand’s evolution can be summarized as:

Darkie → Darlie → Darlie / 好來

This progression reflects a gradual shift away from the original racialized identity while preserving consumer recognition built over decades.

While toothpaste remains its flagship offering, Darlie has expanded into a comprehensive oral-care portfolio. The current product range includes several major categories:

Toothpaste

Darlie offers toothpaste formulations addressing various consumer needs, including fresh breath, plaque control, gum and teeth protection, whitening, enamel protection, anti-bacterial care, children’s oral care, and sensitive/gentle oral care. Current listings include ranges such as Darlie Double Action, Darlie Gum & Teeth Protect, Darlie All Shiny White, and Darlie Bunny Kids 4.

Toothbrushes

The brand sells multiple toothbrush designs, ranging from conventional models to specialized brushes marketed for comfort, cleaning performance, and specific brushing needs.

Mouthwash and other oral-care products

Beyond toothpaste and toothbrushes, Darlie offers products such as mouthwash and mouth sprays, as well as travel kits and other oral hygiene accessories.

Children’s products

The children’s range includes products under Bunny Kids and Jolly Junior, featuring fruit-flavored toothpaste and dental kits designed to make brushing more appealing to younger users.

Darlie Double Action

Double Action is one of Darlie’s traditional core ranges. It emphasizes fresh breath, plaque reduction, cavity prevention, and tooth strengthening. Certain variants utilize natural mint essence and are marketed for long-lasting freshness 15. The line has expanded to include Enamel Protect and Multicare variants, positioning Double Action as a multifunctional oral care solution 5.

Darlie All Shiny White

All Shiny White focuses primarily on whitening. The range uses surface-stain-dissolving technology intended to remove extrinsic stains while remaining gentle on enamel. Variants available in select markets include charcoal, enzyme, lime mint, purple, Sakura, and baking soda formulations 17.

Darlie Gum & Teeth Protect

This range targets gum and tooth health, utilizing an Advanced Zinc Citrate Formula according to product information.

Darlie Bunny Kids

Designed for younger users, this range includes various flavors and dental kits. Darlie states these products use food-grade ingredients and are formulated to enhance the brushing experience for children.

Darlie’s most recognizable asset is its smiling gentleman mascot. Typically depicted in formal wear and a top hat, the modern character has been redesigned to be less explicitly tied to any specific racial identity, distinguishing it from the problematic origins of the Darkie era.

Current branding emphasizes:

• Smiling and confidence
• Freshness and clean teeth
• Modern oral science
• Everyday oral health
• Family oral care

The company describes its mission as safeguarding oral health and confident smiles through quality professional oral-care products and services 2.

Unlike globally distributed brands such as Colgate, Darlie has historically maintained its strongest presence in Asian markets. A 2020 Reuters report citing Euromonitor data indicated Darlie held approximately:

• 17% of China’s toothpaste market
• 21% of Singapore’s toothpaste market
• 28% of Malaysia’s toothpaste market
• 45% of Taiwan’s toothpaste market

These figures highlight the brand’s historical significance in its core territories, though they do not necessarily reflect current market shares 8. Malaysia remains particularly strategic for Darlie, which maintains a dedicated local operation, Hawley & Hazel Marketing (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, based in Petaling Jaya, Selangor 6.

Darlie products are manufactured through the Hawley & Hazel group and its associated facilities. The company emphasizes rigorous quality management and manufacturing standards. Corporate information lists certifications including ISO 9001, ISO 14001, ISO 22716, and Good Manufacturing Practice-related credentials obtained throughout its history 7. This positions Darlie as a modern oral-health business focused on formulation, product technology, and quality control rather than merely a traditional toothpaste manufacturer.

Darlie’s history is intrinsically linked to the controversy surrounding its original branding, which evolved through three distinct stages:

Stage 1: Original Darkie identity

The toothpaste originally used a name and character derived from blackface minstrel imagery. The Smithsonian identifies the original packaging as being based on blackface performer Al Jolson 12.

Stage 2: 1989 Darlie transition

Following Colgate-Palmolive’s 50% partnership with Hawley & Hazel, the English name changed from Darkie to Darlie, and packaging was redesigned to address international criticism 13.

Stage 3: 2022 好來 transition

The Chinese name was eventually changed from 黑人牙膏 to 好來, representing a further step to distance the brand from historical racial terminology 10.

Thus, Darlie’s rebranding was not a singular event but a multi-decade process involving changes to the English name, mascot, packaging, and eventually the Chinese name.

Today, Darlie presents itself as a modern Asian oral-care brand. Its current initiative emphasizes “All-inclusive confident smiles for all” and focuses on developing products for diverse oral health needs 16. Newer product development prioritizes technology and ingredients designed to address specific aspects of dental health 2.

This represents a significant departure from the brand’s historical identity; modern Darlie is built around oral health, personal confidence, and product specialization rather than the character-driven marketing of its early decades.

Darlie serves as a notable example of an Asian consumer brand whose history spans nearly a century and whose identity has evolved substantially in response to changing social attitudes. From its origins as Darkie Toothpaste in 1930s Shanghai, it grew into a major regional brand. Its 1985 partnership with Colgate-Palmolive integrated it into an international corporate environment and triggered intense scrutiny of its imagery. The subsequent 1989 Darkie-to-Darlie rebranding was followed decades later by the 2022 adoption of 好來, marking another decisive step away from its historical identity 14.

Today, Darlie functions as a regional oral-care brand under Hawley & Hazel with a portfolio extending well beyond traditional toothpaste. Its strongest identity remains anchored in East and Southeast Asia, particularly in markets such as Malaysia, Singapore, Taiwan, and China 14.

1. Hawley & Hazel Group: Darlie® Legal Policy | Darlie®
2. BRAND INITIATIVE | DARLIE MALAYSIA | UBAT GIGI, BERUS GIGI & TIPS PENJAGAAN MULUT
3. Darlie
4. Toothpaste Types – Fluoride Toothpaste For Dental Care | Darlie® MY
5. Double Action Enamel Protect Strong Mint Toothpaste| Darlie® MY
6. Contact Us | Darlie Malaysia | Toothpastes, Toothbrushes & Oral Care Tips
7. Darlie® Malaysia: High Quality & Safe Toothpaste
8. Colgate’s ‘Black Person Toothpaste’—A Market Leader In China—Is Under Review Amid Race Debate
9. The origins of Colgate’s Darlie ‘Black Person Toothpaste’ explained | Goldthread
10. Darlie Toothpaste to finally rebrand Chinese name – Little Museum Of Foreign Brand Advertising In The R.O.C. 民國中外廣告微博物館
11. Colgate reviewing Chinese toothpaste brand Darlie amid debate on racial inequality
12. How Darkie, now Darlie, became East Asia’s favourite…
13. Sejarah logo Darlie dan perkaitan antara Darlie dengan Colgate | Iluminasi
14. Colgate Darkie Darlie | PPT
15. Double Action Toothpaste-Fresh Breath & Healthier Mouth | Darlie® MY
16. 品牌焕新 | 好来牙膏中国官网 | 牙刷、牙膏、口腔清洁及护理
17. Toothpaste | Shine Bright and Stay Refreshed | Darlie SG