Burberry is a British luxury fashion house established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England. Recognised as one of Britain’s most prominent luxury brands, it is particularly associated with outerwear, the trench coat, the Burberry Check, British heritage, and the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD). In 2026, Burberry marks its 170th anniversary.1

Burberry frames its heritage around the concept of creating clothing that protects people from the elements, merging practicality, innovation, and British design.2

Born in England, Thomas Burberry began his career as a draper’s apprentice. At just 21 years old, he opened his own business in Basingstoke in 1856, originally serving the local community with fabrics and clothing.3

Unlike many contemporary fashion enterprises, Burberry prioritised function before fashion. Thomas Burberry sought to address a fundamental challenge: British weather was wet, cold, and unpredictable, yet existing waterproof garments were often heavy, uncomfortable, and lacked breathability. His solution to this problem ultimately became the foundation of the entire brand.

A pivotal contribution to fashion history was the development of gabardine. In 1879, Thomas Burberry created a tightly woven fabric that was:

• Lightweight
• Breathable
• Weather-resistant
• Durable
• Suitable for outdoor clothing

While earlier waterproof materials typically relied on heavy rubberised, waxed, or oiled fabrics, gabardine offered protection without sacrificing comfort. The fabric was patented in 1888.4

This innovation is central to understanding the brand. Burberry did not initially gain fame as a fashionable luxury label; rather, it became renowned for solving practical problems through textile innovation. This philosophy—combining innovation, protection, and British weather—remains integral to Burberry’s identity today.

As the business grew, Burberry expanded beyond its original Basingstoke premises. In 1891, the company opened a store at 30 Haymarket in London, establishing a presence in one of Britain’s key commercial and fashion districts.5

By this time, Burberry had built a reputation for outdoor clothing and equipment. Its clientele included sportsmen, explorers, mountaineers, aviators, military personnel, travellers, and wealthy outdoor enthusiasts. This association with exploration and adventure helped position Burberry as a brand connected with British resilience and the outdoors.

Burberry clothing was utilised by several notable explorers. A significant example was Roald Amundsen, the Norwegian explorer who became the first person to reach the South Pole in 1911. His expedition employed Burberry gabardine clothing and equipment.6

This reinforced a crucial aspect of Burberry’s early image: the brand produced clothing designed to withstand extreme conditions. This heritage later proved invaluable as the brand transitioned from practical outdoor wear to luxury fashion.

The product most synonymous with Burberry is the trench coat. Its origins predate the trench coat itself; in 1912, Thomas Burberry patented the Tielocken coat, widely regarded as its predecessor.7

During World War I, Burberry adapted its outerwear to meet military requirements. The resulting trench coat featured practical details such as epaulettes, D-rings, storm shields, gun flaps, belts, and durable gabardine construction. According to the company’s historical records, more than 500,000 Burberry coats were worn by armed forces personnel during the First World War.8

The term “trench” refers to the trenches of World War I, where soldiers required clothing capable of withstanding rain, wind, and harsh conditions.

The Burberry trench coat eventually transcended its original military purpose. After the war, it became associated with travel, adventure, British sophistication, film, celebrity culture, and urban fashion. By the mid-20th century, it had evolved from military equipment into a fashion archetype.

Burberry continues to produce Heritage trench coats in Yorkshire, with classic versions retaining details such as the belt, epaulettes, and Check lining.9 Today, the trench coat remains one of the most recognisable garments in fashion history.

Another defining element of the brand is the Burberry Check. The distinctive beige, black, white, and red pattern originally appeared as a lining for Burberry raincoats in the 1920s and emerged as a prominent fashion symbol during the 1960s.10

The Check eventually extended far beyond linings, appearing on scarves, shirts, jackets, handbags, hats, shoes, accessories, umbrellas, and luggage. This transformation illustrates a key concept in luxury branding: a functional detail evolving into a visual brand identity. The Check is now instantly recognisable even without the Burberry name.

The other major Burberry symbol is the Equestrian Knight Design, commonly abbreviated as EKD. The original trademark appeared around 1901, featuring a knight on horseback alongside the Latin word “Prorsum”, meaning “forwards”.11

The symbol conveys ideas central to Burberry: British heritage, tradition, movement, exploration, strength, and progress. Although the EKD has been redesigned and reinterpreted throughout the brand’s history, the equestrian concept remains a vital part of its visual language.

Burberry’s British prestige was further cemented through Royal Warrants. The company received its first warrant from King George V in 1919 as a “Tailor”.12

Historically, Royal Warrants recognised companies supplying goods or services to the British Royal Household. For Burberry, this endorsement reinforced an image combining British craftsmanship, institutional prestige, and heritage.

Throughout the 20th century, Burberry gradually evolved from an outdoor and military outfitter into a broader fashion company. Its products became associated with British country life, hunting, horse riding, travel, aviation, military style, London, film, and celebrity culture.

By 1965, Burberry stated that one in five coats exported from Britain was a Burberry product, demonstrating the company’s significance within British outerwear.13 Even as its product range expanded, the brand’s heritage remained firmly tied to outerwear.

Burberry eventually moved beyond being primarily an outerwear manufacturer to become a full luxury fashion house offering:

Womenswear

• Coats
• Dresses
• Knitwear
• Shirts
• Skirts
• Trousers
• Jackets

Menswear

• Suits
• Jackets
• Shirts
• Knitwear
• Trousers
• Outerwear

Accessories

• Handbags
• Shoes
• Belts
• Scarves
• Hats
• Sunglasses
• Jewellery and other fashion accessories

Beauty

• Fragrance and beauty products form part of the wider Burberry brand ecosystem.

Despite this diversification, the trench coat has remained the centre piece of the brand’s identity.

Burberry’s cultural influence extends well beyond the runway. The trench coat has appeared extensively in Hollywood films, television, British cinema, celebrity wardrobes, music, and street fashion. Its association with detectives, spies, travellers, and sophisticated urban characters transformed it into a visual shorthand for mystery, intelligence, and elegance.

Meanwhile, the Burberry Check became strongly linked with British fashion and celebrity culture. This makes Burberry unusual among luxury brands: its strongest visual symbols were not invented solely for marketing but developed from real historical products and functional design.

Burberry’s design identity can be understood through five core concepts:

1. Britishness

Burberry frequently draws on British landscapes, weather, architecture, music, and cultural history.

2. Protection

The brand’s original purpose was protecting people from the weather, and outerwear remains fundamental.

3. Innovation

From gabardine to new interpretations of trench construction, innovation has always been part of the company’s story.

4. Craftsmanship

Burberry maintains strong connections with British manufacturing and specialist textile production. Its Heritage trench coats, for example, are made in Yorkshire.14

5. Reinvention

Burberry repeatedly redesigns its historical codes rather than simply reproducing archival products. The tension between heritage and modernity is central to the brand.

A significant recent chapter began when Daniel Lee became Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer in 2022. Burberry describes his approach as bringing a fresh perspective rooted in craft, clarity, and British identity.15

Lee’s work emphasises Burberry’s British character while reinterpreting historical codes for contemporary fashion. This includes renewed attention to the trench coat, British outerwear, equestrian imagery, the Burberry Check, British craft, archive-inspired textiles, and the Burberry rose.

His role is particularly significant because Burberry has spent much of its modern history balancing two potentially competing identities: traditional British heritage versus modern global luxury fashion.

2026 marks the company’s 170th anniversary. Burberry is celebrating through campaigns, products, and activations centred on its historical codes. Activities include a Gabardine Capsule and The Trench, Portraits of an Icon, a campaign featuring portraits by photographer Tim Walker and a cast of international figures.16

The company is using its history as a major source of contemporary brand identity rather than treating heritage as purely archival.

The following elements summarise the visual identity of Burberry:

Burberry describes the trench, Check, and EKD as enduring brand codes that remain central to the house.17

Burberry occupies a unique position in luxury fashion. While Chanel is associated with Parisian couture and tweed, Dior with the Bar jacket, Louis Vuitton with travel and monogramming, Gucci with Italian maximalism, and Hermès with leather craftsmanship, Burberry is distinctly associated with British outerwear, weather protection, and the trench coat.

This makes Burberry’s historical foundation unusually practical for a luxury fashion house. Its luxury identity developed essentially from the question of how to make clothing that protects people from British weather, rather than beginning purely with haute couture.

Today, Burberry is described as a British luxury fashion house with a strong heritage in outerwear. Its positioning sits at the intersection of:

• Heritage: 1856 history, British craftsmanship, archives
• Function: Weatherproof fabrics and outerwear
• Luxury: Premium materials, craftsmanship, and fashion
• Fashion: Runway collections and contemporary design
• Culture: Music, celebrities, film, and modern British identity

This combination gives Burberry its distinctive market position.

Burberry is a British luxury fashion house founded by Thomas Burberry in 1856, best known for its weather-resistant outerwear, iconic trench coat, Burberry Check and Equestrian Knight Design, whose identity combines British heritage, textile innovation, craftsmanship and contemporary fashion.

• 1856 — Thomas Burberry establishes the company in Basingstoke.
• 1879 — Burberry develops gabardine.
• 1888 — Gabardine is patented.
• 1891 — Burberry opens a London store on Haymarket.
• 1901 — The Equestrian Knight trademark appears.
• 1911 — Roald Amundsen’s South Pole expedition uses Burberry equipment/clothing.
• 1912 — Thomas Burberry patents the Tielocken coat.
• 1914–18 — The trench coat is developed for military use.
• 1919 — Burberry receives its first Royal Warrant.
• 1920s — The Burberry Check begins appearing as trench-coat lining.
• 1940s — Burberry supplies military apparel during World War II.
• 1960s — The Check becomes a major fashion symbol; Burberry reaches significant export scale.
• 1970s onward — Burberry’s heritage outerwear becomes increasingly integrated into mainstream fashion.
• 2000s — Burberry develops into a major global luxury fashion brand.
• 2009 — Burberry launches Art of the Trench.
• 2022 — Daniel Lee becomes Chief Creative Officer.
• 2025 — Burberry continues major heritage and trench-focused initiatives.
• 2026 — Burberry celebrates its 170th anniversary.18

Burberry’s greatest strength lies in its unusually coherent heritage. While many luxury brands possess iconic logos or patterns, Burberry has an entire historical narrative behind its visual identity: British weather → gabardine → outdoor clothing → military trench coat → British trench coat → Check → luxury fashion.

The trench coat acts as a bridge between Burberry’s functional 19th-century origins and its position as a 21st-century luxury fashion house. Ultimately, what makes Burberry distinctive is that it turned protection from the British weather into one of the world’s most recognisable luxury-fashion identities.19

1. History – Burberryplc
2. Annual Report 2025/26
3. Our Story | Burberry®️ Official
4. Burberry Group plc Annual Report and Accounts
5. Annual Report 2024/25
6. Celebrating 170 years of Burberry – Burberryplc
7. How Celebrities Style Burberry’s Iconic Check Print | Vogue
8. Checking Up on Daniel Lee and Burberry as the House Turns 170 | Vogue
9. Burberry Fall 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection | Vogue
10. Burberry Trench Coats 101: A Guide to Shopping the Iconic Outerwear in 2025 | Vogue
11. “Change is inevitable”: Daniel Lee debuts reimagined vision for Burberry | Vogue
12. Daniel Lee’s vision for Burberry is an ode to Britishness | Vogue
13. Check’s New Mate: Daniel Lee Shares His Vision for Burberry | Vogue
14. Burberry names Daniel Lee new chief creative officer as Riccardo Tisci bows out | Vogue
15. If I Was An Animal… | Vogue
16. Riccardo Tisci Talks Monograms and the Importance of “Humanizing” the Burberry Label | Vogue
17. 10 Key Things to Know From Riccardo Tisci’s 134-Look Burberry Debut | Vogue
18. Our Story | Burberry®️ Official
19. Our Story | Burberry®️ Official