Origins during World War II

The history of Salt-Water Sandals is intrinsically linked to material shortages in the United States during World War II.

According to the Hoy Shoe Company, Walter Hoy and his brother-in-law Sam Bown were active in the St. Louis footwear industry during the war. With leather rationed for military use, Hoy sought to utilise usable scraps left over from boot production rather than discarding them.[4]

One of the earliest pairs was created for Walter Hoy’s daughter, Margery. These sandals proved durable enough for daily wear and could tolerate water, a rare quality for leather footwear at the time. Interest from other families in St. Louis subsequently led Hoy and Bown to expand production.[1]

The Hoy Shoe Company identifies 1944 as the official founding year of the business.[4]

Development of the brand

Production continued after World War II, even as wartime leather shortages eased. The sandal gradually transitioned from a utilitarian children’s shoe to a broader footwear product.

The company’s distinctive construction has remained relatively consistent, featuring leather straps, a stitched rubber sole, and an adjustable buckle system. The brand’s longevity is often attributed to this design stability, which has changed little over generations.[1]

Current company materials describe the business as a fourth-generation family operation, maintaining the partnership between the Hoy and Bown families established in St. Louis in the 1940s.[4]

The name Salt-Water references the sandals’ specific capability to be worn around water.

The leather is treated with a water-resistant coating, and metal buckles are designed to resist rust. This allows the sandals to be worn at beaches, pools, and during wet-weather activities. They can also be hand-washed with cool water and mild detergent.[2]

Water is integral to the intended break-in process. As the leather softens through wear and exposure to moisture, it moulds to the shape of the wearer’s foot. Consequently, the company presents water resistance not merely as protection, but as a fundamental aspect of the product’s design philosophy.[1]

The classic Salt-Water design is instantly recognisable and occupies a unique position between traditional leather footwear and functional beachwear.

Principal features include:

• Leather upper: Genuine leather treated to withstand water exposure.[4]
• Interwoven straps: Crossed or interlinked leather construction forming the upper of many classic models.
• Adjustable buckle: A metal buckle allowing fit adjustment around the ankle or foot.
• Rust-resistant hardware: Buckles specifically designed to permit use in wet environments without corroding.[1]
• Rubber sole: A moulded, non-slip rubber sole attached using traditional construction techniques.[4]
• Water-friendly construction: Designed to survive getting wet rather than requiring avoidance of moisture.

The Salt-Water Original is the most prominent expression of the brand’s traditional design.

According to the company, it was the first model produced in Walter Hoy’s workshop in 1944. Its design centres on a hand-crafted leather upper, moulded rubber sole, adjustable buckle, and water-resistant construction.[4]

The Tan Original is particularly associated with the brand and is described as its long-running bestseller.[1] Rather than following transient footwear trends, the Original retains a silhouette traceable to the company’s earliest products, making visual simplicity a key part of its identity.

Salt-Water Sandals have historically been tied to the Hoy family’s manufacturing operations in St. Louis, Missouri.

Today, production occurs in both the United States and China. The company states that sandals continue to be produced in its Missouri factory using original-era machinery, while additional production takes place at a family-run factory in China. According to the company’s ethical statement, the Chinese facility has partnered with Salt-Water since 2008 and utilises machinery and methods adapted to the traditional Hoy production process.[1]

This dual-manufacturing approach supports the brand’s identity as a continuation of a long-standing family shoemaking tradition rather than solely a fashion label.

A distinctive aspect of Salt-Water Sandals is the use of leather in a water-friendly sandal.

While ordinary leather footwear typically requires keeping the material dry, Salt-Water employs specially treated leather that tolerates water. This construction allows the material to soften and mould to the foot through use.[4]

The company has investigated vegan alternatives but states it has not yet found a material offering the same combination of water resistance, durability, and moulding characteristics without relying heavily on plastics. Therefore, standard Salt-Water sandals remain leather products.[1]

Although the Salt-Water Original remains the signature model, the range has expanded significantly.

Offerings include:

• Classic Salt-Water sandals
• Women’s sandals
• Children’s sandals
• Baby and toddler styles
• Larger adult sizes
• Slides and newer silhouettes
• Sun-San, a related range with different sole construction

The Sun-San line is distinguished by its urethane sole, which provides a softer, more cushioned feel compared to the traditional rubber sole.[1]

The company has also introduced larger sizes to make historically family-oriented styles accessible to more adult customers.[1]

Salt-Water Sandals hold a distinct place in footwear culture, with appeal rooted in more than just technical performance or contemporary fashion.

They are associated with summer, seaside culture, childhood, family traditions, and vintage-inspired fashion. The stable construction over decades lends a nostalgic appearance while remaining relevant to modern consumers.

The ability to be worn by multiple generations is central to the company’s identity. The brand emphasises that those who wore Salt-Water Sandals as children can purchase similar styles for their own offspring.[4] This has elevated the sandal from simple children’s footwear to a heritage fashion product.

In the Philippines, distributors describe Salt-Water Sandals as particularly suited to the country’s beach-oriented and tropical lifestyle.[5]

Salt-Water’s brand identity encompasses four core concepts:

Heritage.
The company highlights its 1940s origins and continuity as a four-generation family business.[4]

Durability.
Sandals are constructed as long-lasting goods rather than disposable seasonal items.

Water-friendliness.
Getting wet is central to the product’s function rather than something to avoid.

Timeless design.
The brand retains recognisable original construction while introducing new colours, sizes, and silhouettes.

Although originating in St. Louis, Missouri, Salt-Water Sandals are sold internationally across North America, Europe, Asia, Australia, and other markets. The company describes the sandals as being worn by families worldwide.[4]

Regional distributors operate in various markets. For instance, the Philippine operation positions the product as ideal for local tropical conditions and beach culture.[5]

Salt-Water Sandals are technically a brand and product line of the Hoy Shoe Company rather than a separate manufacturer.

Hoy Shoe Company manufactures both the Salt-Water and Sun-San ranges, with headquarters and historical roots in St. Louis.[6] This distinction is significant as the brand’s identity is inseparable from the family-owned manufacturing business behind it.

More than eight decades after their inception, Salt-Water Sandals remain recognisable because their fundamental concept has changed little.

What began as a practical response to wartime leather shortages evolved into a family business and eventually an international heritage brand. The company continues to uphold principles of durability, water resistance, traditional construction, and family use.[4]

Salt-Water Sandals are notable not merely for their age, but because the original product concept remains central: a simple leather sandal designed to be worn hard, worn repeatedly, and worn in the water.

Quick reference

1. Salt-Water Sandals Official Story – Iconic American Brand
2. Frequently Asked Questions about Salt-Water Sandals
3. Salt Water Sandals have never gone out of style – Salt Water Sandals AU
4. Our Story
5. Salt-Water Original (Ladies) – White – Salt Water Sandals
6. Hoy Shoe Company (Salt-Water Sandals) | LinkedIn